Driving into Santa Fe, I proclaimed that it was a midget city, since everything is only one story high. Liz promptly pointed out that midget is not PC and that they prefer being called little people. So Liz and I spent a day and a half in Little People City which was Am-Az-Ing! (Now Liz corrects herself and says they prefer to be called dwarfs - thanks TLC!) Santa Fe is absolutely precious with great architecture that is distinctive from anything else we had seen on the trip.
Santa Fe has lots and lots of galleries- the city is the third largest city for art right after New York and LA. Liz and I spent a day wondering from gallery to gallery. I found Pop, a modern art gallery that has one of the best collections I've seen in a very long time. Liz bought a couple of photos from Lisa Kristine. We also explored the Georgia O'Keeffe museum before we retired to our hotel to tan by poolside (we concluded she was not a lesbian - what a shock!). Again keeping with the theme of the trip, Liz and I did some amazing chowing. We had the "GarbageBurger" which included avocados, cheese, chili and whatever else was lying around the kitchen. Needless to say it was great though Liz and I are burgered out for a while. We also managed to squeeze in a couple of workouts before we hit the road for the Grand Canyon.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Dueling in Austin
Liz and I had a short stop over in Austin on the way from New Orleans to New Mexico. I reaffirmed my love for dueling piano bars. Liz and I were dragging ourselves on 6th Street after dinner completely exhausted. We were planning on heading back to our hotel room when we passed by a bar that had dueling pianos. We went in and had a blast of a time singing along. I love, love karaoke but I have discovered a deeper love for dueling piano bars. It is just like karaoke but much better. On this trip, Liz has also found a very deep love for Billy Joel especially for Captain Jack. We listen to Billy at least an hour on the days we drive. Liz asked for Captain Jack but the singers just ignored her request. A bit later, someone else asked for Captain Jack just to be ignored again. After working out and a wee bit of tanning the next morning, Liz and I left for New Mexico.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Big Queasy
We really went all out in New Orleans! Maybe it was the thrill of two whole days without stepping foot in my car (while except for my disaster tour) that made us so enthusiastic about the city, but it really is a wonderful place. Some other highlights from our couple of days there include shopping around the French Quarter markets, strolling along the Mississippi and riding the street car. I also loved the Garden District, although Gohar is still recovering from being "tricked" into a Lonely Planet -guided walking tour in 95 degree heat of the Civil-War era homes ("LIZ, I didn't sign-up for this!") But the Garden District is also home to the swanky Commander's Palace, where we enjoyed traditional (read very rich) New Orleans dishes like turtle soup and poached oysters in bacon and artichoke cream sauce. The later dish forced me to spend some down time in Uptown (and inspired the title of this post), but I recovered in time to hear Rebirth Brass Band at the Maple Leaf.
We even took a little of New Orleans on the road today, picking up croissants for breakfast and a muffuletta for lunch (which was enjoyed a Beaumont, TX Jack in the Box). Only 30 more miles to Austin, where I'm starting my diet...
We even took a little of New Orleans on the road today, picking up croissants for breakfast and a muffuletta for lunch (which was enjoyed a Beaumont, TX Jack in the Box). Only 30 more miles to Austin, where I'm starting my diet...
Merriment in New Orleans
Firstly, lots and lots of thanks to the amazing Matt Rufo who graciously hosted us in his home and was so generous with his time and space. Also, we are thankful to Matt's friend Steve who helped arrange one of the best meals we have had in a long time (which is saying a lot on this trip :)
Now onto New Orleans. The city blew through all our expectations. It has such a big heart and so much merriment that it was hard to leave. Liz and I listened to some amazing music. One of our favorites: In the Spotted Cat, a bar for 30, an 8 piece band roared. And then in walked an older woman with her tambourine. For the next 15 minutes, she used her legs and hands to play the instrument so that it left us speechless. And then she packed up and left. Next the band leader cajoled an old man to the stage who had been milling around and smoking at the bar. He went up and started singing a Dean Martin piece which Liz and I have been humming for the last two days. We also saw a 10 piece bass band at Maple Leaf that we shook our booties to.
On a Liz-lead disaster tour, we drove around the Ninth Ward which was completely ruined by the hurricane. Some of the houses have been completely rebuilt. The ones that weren't had spaytagged messages indicating the gov agency that had walked through the house after the storm, the date they had done so and whether they had found any bodies inside. Residents had also spay painted whether the gas was off and whether there were any animals inside the house. As we drove around the city, it was hard to imagine that 80% a city that now brims with so much life was underwater only 3 years ago. Some 25% of the residents still have not returned.
Also, keeping up with the theme of the trip, Liz and I did a lot of eating. New Orleans has AMAZING food. Yumminess included turtle soup in the restaurant Emerile (sp) originally cooked in, crocodile sausage and crabcake cheesecake, the best fried chicken Liz has ever had, amazing gumbo served out of styrofoam cups at a hole in the wall, airy and buttery croissants at a French cafe, and beignets at Cafe du Monde.
The best night of the trip thus far was Monday. Steve, Matt's friend, made reservations at Bayona, one of the city's best restaurants. All the stars were aligned: it was restaurant month so the fixed price dinner was only $30; it was Monday so there was free wine tasting before dinner; and it was Bastille day so we could take in our own wine without paying the corkage fee. We had one of the best meals in recent memory at Bayona and then stumbled over to Hotel Monteleone, where there's a carousel bar so you spin and spin as you sip and sip.
Afterwards, Liz and I sang Sweet Caroline en route to Cafe du Monde. Keep in mind Liz and I CANNOT sing. Neither of us could carry a tune if it had a handle. When we sing, most of our friends tell us to shut up. To top it off, we don't really know the words. But Steve pulled up the words on his blackberry so we could advance beyond the chorus. It was amazing and has forever endeared Steve to Liz and me.
I could go on and on about New Orleans and how amazing it is but words would never do it justice. Nothing starts on time (very compatible with liz/gogo time), people dance on the streets, there is music in every cafe and so much amazing food that you really have to pace yourself. We're already planning a return visit!
Now onto New Orleans. The city blew through all our expectations. It has such a big heart and so much merriment that it was hard to leave. Liz and I listened to some amazing music. One of our favorites: In the Spotted Cat, a bar for 30, an 8 piece band roared. And then in walked an older woman with her tambourine. For the next 15 minutes, she used her legs and hands to play the instrument so that it left us speechless. And then she packed up and left. Next the band leader cajoled an old man to the stage who had been milling around and smoking at the bar. He went up and started singing a Dean Martin piece which Liz and I have been humming for the last two days. We also saw a 10 piece bass band at Maple Leaf that we shook our booties to.
On a Liz-lead disaster tour, we drove around the Ninth Ward which was completely ruined by the hurricane. Some of the houses have been completely rebuilt. The ones that weren't had spaytagged messages indicating the gov agency that had walked through the house after the storm, the date they had done so and whether they had found any bodies inside. Residents had also spay painted whether the gas was off and whether there were any animals inside the house. As we drove around the city, it was hard to imagine that 80% a city that now brims with so much life was underwater only 3 years ago. Some 25% of the residents still have not returned.
Also, keeping up with the theme of the trip, Liz and I did a lot of eating. New Orleans has AMAZING food. Yumminess included turtle soup in the restaurant Emerile (sp) originally cooked in, crocodile sausage and crabcake cheesecake, the best fried chicken Liz has ever had, amazing gumbo served out of styrofoam cups at a hole in the wall, airy and buttery croissants at a French cafe, and beignets at Cafe du Monde.
The best night of the trip thus far was Monday. Steve, Matt's friend, made reservations at Bayona, one of the city's best restaurants. All the stars were aligned: it was restaurant month so the fixed price dinner was only $30; it was Monday so there was free wine tasting before dinner; and it was Bastille day so we could take in our own wine without paying the corkage fee. We had one of the best meals in recent memory at Bayona and then stumbled over to Hotel Monteleone, where there's a carousel bar so you spin and spin as you sip and sip.
Afterwards, Liz and I sang Sweet Caroline en route to Cafe du Monde. Keep in mind Liz and I CANNOT sing. Neither of us could carry a tune if it had a handle. When we sing, most of our friends tell us to shut up. To top it off, we don't really know the words. But Steve pulled up the words on his blackberry so we could advance beyond the chorus. It was amazing and has forever endeared Steve to Liz and me.
I could go on and on about New Orleans and how amazing it is but words would never do it justice. Nothing starts on time (very compatible with liz/gogo time), people dance on the streets, there is music in every cafe and so much amazing food that you really have to pace yourself. We're already planning a return visit!
Sunday, July 13, 2008
Kentwood, Lousiana
Just passed through Britney Spears hometown and only 80 miles to New Orleans! Now that Gogo has taken the wheel, I can post some musing about things we learned today on the road:
- One Vanilla Creme Rolaids provides much needed relief from A&R BBQ-induced heartburn. Two will make you nauseous, especially on long car-rides.
- The awesome "new" song Gogo heard a couple of weeks ago is actually Bill Joel's You May Be Right...from 1980.
- Elvis is actually Elvis Presley's real name. Learning that only cost me $32 and 2.5 hours at Graceland (Liz)
- All "get-on-the-road" times are plus or minus 3 hours on this trip. We got going a little late today...again.
More to come on this list. My laptop battery is dying, and the Big Easy beckons...
- One Vanilla Creme Rolaids provides much needed relief from A&R BBQ-induced heartburn. Two will make you nauseous, especially on long car-rides.
- The awesome "new" song Gogo heard a couple of weeks ago is actually Bill Joel's You May Be Right...from 1980.
- Elvis is actually Elvis Presley's real name. Learning that only cost me $32 and 2.5 hours at Graceland (Liz)
- All "get-on-the-road" times are plus or minus 3 hours on this trip. We got going a little late today...again.
More to come on this list. My laptop battery is dying, and the Big Easy beckons...
Eating Our Way Through Tennessee!
It has been an incredible couple of days since our last post. Nashville was awesome. Liz and I had some of the best burgers we have ever had. Then we tried to have pancakes in a place that has 40 some different kind of pancakes but the line was two hours long! Liz and I also went to the famous Bluebird Cafe where I flirted and talked ourselves into a table without reservations. The music was fantastic. Four singers sat in a circle singing original songs. Liz is now in love with country music.
In a cloud of musical haze, we drove to Memphis where we gorged on ribs at Rendezvous. OMG were the ribs good. The sausages were incredible as well. Liz bought two bottles of Rendezvous's famous seasoning to drench her tots in. She thinks that Rendezvous should add tots to the menu (put purists might disagree, she points out). We also had incredible ribs (Liz) and pork shoulder sandwich (GoGo) at a hole in the wall on Elvis Presley Lane. To make sure we could continue fitting in our clothes, Liz and I also squeezed in a work out this morning after hanging out on Beale Street and sipping margaritas last night.
In between all the eating, we visited Lorraine Motel which houses the National Civil Rights Museum and where Martin Luther King was shot. We also stopped by Graceland to visit the King.
We are now on route to New Orleans where the very handsome and kind Matt Rufo is putting is up. We can't wait to see New Orleans, hear some incredible music and eat what I am sure will be finger licking good food. Liz even promises to even go dancing. We'll be in New Orleans for a couple of days and are also looking forward to not having to drive. If we don't post for a couple of days, it will be because we are having way too much fun.
Hugs from the South,
Liz and GoGo
PS Zuzka this is a mobile post just for you!
In a cloud of musical haze, we drove to Memphis where we gorged on ribs at Rendezvous. OMG were the ribs good. The sausages were incredible as well. Liz bought two bottles of Rendezvous's famous seasoning to drench her tots in. She thinks that Rendezvous should add tots to the menu (put purists might disagree, she points out). We also had incredible ribs (Liz) and pork shoulder sandwich (GoGo) at a hole in the wall on Elvis Presley Lane. To make sure we could continue fitting in our clothes, Liz and I also squeezed in a work out this morning after hanging out on Beale Street and sipping margaritas last night.
In between all the eating, we visited Lorraine Motel which houses the National Civil Rights Museum and where Martin Luther King was shot. We also stopped by Graceland to visit the King.
We are now on route to New Orleans where the very handsome and kind Matt Rufo is putting is up. We can't wait to see New Orleans, hear some incredible music and eat what I am sure will be finger licking good food. Liz even promises to even go dancing. We'll be in New Orleans for a couple of days and are also looking forward to not having to drive. If we don't post for a couple of days, it will be because we are having way too much fun.
Hugs from the South,
Liz and GoGo
PS Zuzka this is a mobile post just for you!
Friday, July 11, 2008
Southern Hospitality??
After 712 miles of driving through the South, Gogo and I are still in search of some southern hospitality. Where are all the supposedly really nice southerners? I can understand why they may give Gohar the cold shoulder (we stopped at a gas station this morning with a large "Owned by Americans" sign), but what about me in my red and white striped skirt? You already heard about the run-in with the VA state trooper. In another example: This morning, we woke up a bit late for our free breakfast (and now that we're adjusting to grad school life, we're trying to be economical (and save for Coach outlets)). We ran down to breakfast at 9:57am only to be told by the receptionist that she was sorry but breakfast was closed. I responded in my most sugary sweet voice, "Great, we've still got three minutes!" Maybe we're not far enough South yet, or maybe we're stopping at the wrong establishments. The cashier at Piggly Wiggly this afternoon wasn't very nice either. Of course we weren't very impressed with her fresh fruit...
I know that some of you are breathlessly waiting for pics from our trip. Unfortunately you will have to wait a few more days for Dollywood (well at least the gift shop), Great Smokey Mt. Nat'l Park (scaling waterfalls and battling tourists) and other adventures. I'm missing the connector cord to upload pics from my camera...
I know that some of you are breathlessly waiting for pics from our trip. Unfortunately you will have to wait a few more days for Dollywood (well at least the gift shop), Great Smokey Mt. Nat'l Park (scaling waterfalls and battling tourists) and other adventures. I'm missing the connector cord to upload pics from my camera...
Stunned to Silence
Tennessee is absolutely stunning. Liz and I went hiking today in the Smokey Mountains ----- sooooo pretty. Except for all the tourists.
In an effort to get to Nashville, I stopped Liz from going to outlets. "But look, Coach," she said. No dice. In what I am sure will become a common theme on this trip, we starved ourselves until we found a Subway and then drove some more through the amazingly beautiful state. (Note that Subway is Liz's obsession.) Also, for the first time in a long time, I was really, really sad not to find a Starbucks. What's a girl to do for a good cup of coffee?
Liz and I are out to check out the sites in Nashville including the Grand Old Opry and downtown Nashville. Later on, we are going line dancing and I'm sure we'll eat lots and lots of bbq. In what I'm sure is another theme of the trip, there are way more things to see than we can check out given the time we have.
Tennessee is absolutely stunning. Liz and I went hiking today in the Smokey Mountains ----- sooooo pretty. Except for all the tourists.
In an effort to get to Nashville, I stopped Liz from going to outlets. "But look, Coach," she said. No dice. In what I am sure will become a common theme on this trip, we starved ourselves until we found a Subway and then drove some more through the amazingly beautiful state. (Note that Subway is Liz's obsession.) Also, for the first time in a long time, I was really, really sad not to find a Starbucks. What's a girl to do for a good cup of coffee?
Liz and I are out to check out the sites in Nashville including the Grand Old Opry and downtown Nashville. Later on, we are going line dancing and I'm sure we'll eat lots and lots of bbq. In what I'm sure is another theme of the trip, there are way more things to see than we can check out given the time we have.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Vegas in Tennessee
It is the first day of Liz and Gogo crossing America. We are staying in a small town in Tennessee called Pigeon Forge. Though the mountains surrounding the town are stunning, the town itself is way tacky. It is like Vegas a la 1970. There is Dollywood. And Cupid's Outlet. And miles and miles of neon signs for mini golf and car racing. We had dinner at a Benni Hana's (sp) knock off and Liz now thinks she smells like the grill. I am so excited to sleep next to a grill smelling Liz tonight.
Highlights of the day:
- The parking gods being kind and instead of towing the car for being parked in a rush hour zone in DC, they simply "moved" the car two blocks away
- The speeding gods weren't as kind and Liz god a speeding ticket in Va
- Liz had her first hashbrowns at Waffle House which were amaaaaaaaazing!
- Driving in Tennessee which is stunning - absolutely stunning.
Going hiking tomorrow in the Smokey Mountains and then onto Nashville. Pictures and more coming up.
Highlights of the day:
- The parking gods being kind and instead of towing the car for being parked in a rush hour zone in DC, they simply "moved" the car two blocks away
- The speeding gods weren't as kind and Liz god a speeding ticket in Va
- Liz had her first hashbrowns at Waffle House which were amaaaaaaaazing!
- Driving in Tennessee which is stunning - absolutely stunning.
Going hiking tomorrow in the Smokey Mountains and then onto Nashville. Pictures and more coming up.
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